JOGLE 7 Day 1 Mon 1 Sep

Mon 1 Sep London To Okehampton

 

This trip is going to go well I thought as I received a phone call from Ian asking why I wasn't underneath  the clock at Waterloo Station - I did point out that it was 1415 and that the train wasn't leaving until 1620, it’s a first! Ian on time and actually early as well! The train left on time but very crowded. Arrival at Exeter St David’s was uneventful as was catching the Stage Coach bus to Okehampton that arrived on time and got us there on time. The landlady of the B&B was most impressed with our arrival bang on time. So was I. It's all in the planning – pre planning and preparation prevents poor performance –the 6 Ps. Except that those in the know will understand that it's 7Ps, but I cant mention the 7th one as its rude.

JOGLE 7 Day 2 Tue 2 Sep

Tue 2 Sep Start 9.20 Finish 15.20 Distance 12 Miles From Okehampton To (Lobhill) Lewdown.

Breakfast was at 8.30 as some End to End cyclists managed to book a slot before us. We went out before breakfast and bought a locally made pasty and fresh made bap roll from the local bakers for lunch, very nice too. Today’s route largely followed the No 27 cycle trail to Lewdown, starting from Okehampton station and walking along railway track. We came across the quarry and all the rolling stock for the Okehampton railway, it is still used to move the stone but no longer provides a proper passenger service, shame really. We could see Sourton Tors in the distance and we had a great view from next to Sourton Church of Dartmoor. We stopped at the Bearslaker Arms for a pint of coke and eat our lunch in a very nice pub and garden and again over looking Dartmoor. There was a nice stream running beside the pub. From the pub we used country paths via Galford Down, they were not particularly walker friendly. We also came across some tree trunks carved into rabbits, they were stacked up by a farm barn. Arrival at Lobhill Cross B & B at 15.20 was very pleasant and we received a very warm welcome, it’s a lovely place to stay with nice gardens and great views of Dartmoor. Our host took us to Lydford in her car to a really nice gastro pub specialising in meat, we had a lovely steak and lamb, but it was not cheap, but well worth it. Our host also came and picked us up once we had had our dinner, what a great service. Breakfast was very good and in a lovely huge farmhouse kitchen. We had breakfast with a couple working in Malaysia.

JOGLE 7 Day 3 Wed 3 Sep

Wed  3 Sep Start 1000 Finish 15.20 Distance 8.75 Miles from Lewdown to Launceston.

We used the Two Castles way where it suited us and local footpaths, which are not in the best of conditions. We stopped at Dingles Steam Fair for refreshments and a look around. The Steam Fair was very interesting with lots of rides that we used to go on as children, rather worrying that they are now in a museum, what does that tell us? It has been unseasonably very hot today, it is supposed to be 20^oc but feels a lot hotter. We arrived at Eagle House Hotel very hot and tired, having had to walk up a very steep long hill to get there. We crossed the boarder into Cornwall today and whilst doing so we came across a German film crew filming a holiday programme, but they didn't want me or Ian in it, I don’t why, perhaps it’s because we were not wearing any lederhosen. We manage get the washing done and also to use the Hotel drying facilities. There was no remote control for the television, no towels and no shower but it did have a bath and a very friendly snail that was hanging out on the window. We ate out at the Spice Room in Launceston being one of two curry houses that seem to serve the best food, everywhere was rather dubious to stay the least. Launceston as a town was interesting with its Castle, history and streets.

JOGLE 7 Day 4 Thu 4 Sep

Thu 4 Sep Start 0825 Finish 1700 Distance 17.5 Miles From Launceston To Camelford.

 

We set off via the Launceston narrow gauge railway and then took the minor roads all the way to the Rising Sun pub in Aretun. There we stopped for lunch for 1.5 hours, as it didn’t open until 12.00, it was also an opportunity to cool down and dry out our shirts. It was a pleasant morning’s walk in the early mist that gradually lifted, but the roads where very well shaded and cooler, but it was still very hot. We had a nice lunch and in a very nice spot. Ian decided to help me achieve an ambition of walking right across Bodmin Moor and to go over Brown Willy, the highest point on the moor. It was very hot and humid and there was not much cloud around or shade, it became very muggy later. On top of Brown Willy were swarms of flying ants that made taking photographs of our Epic achievement very difficult, in the end we had to take cover and get off the Hill as quickly as we could. We headed off aiming to go between Rough Tor and Showery and then the long straight minor road to Camelford. We completed most of the navigation across Bodmin Moor using the contours and map orientation alone which I was extremely pleased about. We made good progress and arrived at the Silvermoon B&B just after 5pm. We received a nice welcome. We ate out at the Mason Arms. They produced very nice food and a whole variety of specials. However the runner beans were not as good as the ones from my allotment and clearly the Chef didn’t know how to prep them as they were very stringy!! We had a very nice breakfast in the morning from our host, Jenny who was very good.

JOGLE 7 Day 5 Fri 5 Sep

Fri 5 Sep Start 0845 Finish 1615 Distance 14.5 Miles from Camelford to Bodmin.

It was a misty start to the day but very nice walking along the Camelford trial. Although the footpath is not well marked from Camelford and not particularly well maintained until it joins the old railway line; once you reach Wenford Dries/ Keybridge it becomes a motorway certainly the part from Camelford itself is more of a dog walking footpath for the locals as opposed to an attractive route for tourists. We stopped at The Old Inn for lunch that is also the highest pub in Cornwall. My boots and socks were very wet from walking through the long grass, so it was a case of boot and socks off and walking around in bare feet until they had dried out a bit in the very hot sun. I carried out a kit inspection of my Salomon GTX 3 Chassis Gore-Tex boots and discovered that the material for the uppers had developed a hole through wear and tear and that the stitching along a seam was coming undone. So that is the third pair of boots I have got through now. The first pair were ditched after the Pennine Way, although there was nothing wrong them, they just didn’t suite my ankles. We came off at Hellandbridge and took the very undulating minor road to Bodmin just to break up the monotony of the Camel Trial and it was the more direct route to our hotel. We arrived at the Westberry Hotel at 1615.

 

 

 

 

JOGLE 7 Day 6 Sat 6 Sep

Sat 6 Sep Start 8.45 Finish 1500 Distance 13 Miles from Bodmin to Padstow.

The weather was overcast with high humidity. We got up early for Breakfast at 7am as this was the timing we were given on arrival only to be told breakfast is at 8 am on weekends!  Breakfast times is a slightly contentious issue with Ian and I. Very few places (apart from Hotels) will do breakfast early. When you’re walking all day its nice to get an early start especially on hot days so that you can walk in the cool of the morning and it also means that you are not having push yourself too hard to get to the next accommodation on time. It was another nice walk along Camel Trail via Wadebridge. It was somewhat boring as walking on straight level paths like railways and canals is mostly uninteresting apart from items of history along the way, but we do make good progress along these routes as there are no styles, walls, gates or hedges getting in the way and slowing us down and there is very navigation too worry about, by slowing us down I mean going from a rapid speed of 3mph to a much more comfortable 2mph. So what is the difference, well 15 miles at 3 mph means it would you 5 hours to walk, 15 miles at 2 mph means it would take you 7 hours 30 minutes to walk, so that is a 2 ½ hour difference, quite a lot really. We arrived in Wadebridge at 1130 and found the Betjamin centre that Ian wanted to visit, but the museum bit was closed, although it did look more like it was a community hub than a museum. We had a very pleasant organic lunch in Manna Café. The Camel trail beckoned again and off we went fighting our way through loads of cyclists and family walkers, clearly a popular stretch of the trial. There was a nice sea breeze blowing and the views of the Padstow estuary were well worth it. With the sea breeze the humidity levels dropped and it turned out to be a nice afternoon’s walk, it feels good to be on the coast line at last. The Simply B&B is very nice but extremely expensive (Padstow is for accommodation) and our room had a lovely view of Padstow Estuary. We ate out at Rojano's that Ian had specially booked for us and was his treat to me, thank you. The meal was followed by a luxury ice cream just around the corner from Rojano’s. We bought tomorrows lunch from a home made pasty shop called Chough Bakery with some nice bread pudding and treacle tart. Padstow Harbour itself is really nice and we had a good look around. Breakfast at Simply B and B was very nice, we had eggs from the chickens in the back garden and bacon and sausages from the local farm.

JOGLE 7 Day 7 Sun 7 Sep

Sun 7 Sep Start 9.15 Finish 16.15 Distance 15.5 from Padstow to Newquay.

We woke up to lovely clear skies and a wonderful view of the estuary from our room at the B&B. The humidity was low but clearly going it was going to be a very hot day. There is something to be said for perhaps walking later in the autumn for the cooler weather when in the SW England. Today’s route was fairly uneventful, mostly minor roads that were fairly well shaded, a few difficult footpaths were we had to fight to get through hedges was becoming normal. We came across a bungalow on a hill by a crossroads that had “Stonehenge” type stones all around it and stone plaques with sayings all over the outside walls. We also walked past a very much redundant airfield that was apparently the largest in England during WW2. We stopped and had lunch at St Eval's church in the porch with our Mediterranean vegetable pasty and bread pudding from Chough's Bakery in Padstow as this was the only place were shade was available. The church was steeped in the history of the airfield and some of the brave exploits of the pilots, an interesting place to visit. From St Eval’s church the afternoon became very hot with no shade until we arrived at Porth Mawgan feeling tired, we found a Coasta Coffee, had a latte, took the boots and socks off to air feet and gave them a rest in a nice piece of shade. From Portreath we ventured onto the SW Coastal Path which was breezy and very nice and had a pleasant stroll into Newquay. We found the B&B alright, which pleased Ian because he instantly realised due to the decoration of the house that a fellow graphic designer must live there, and he was right. It was a very welcoming nice place. We ate out at the Butcher's Bistro which was just along the road from the B&B and that was pleasant with good food, and then we took a stroll around Newquay to checkout the town and harbour, but it was dark by then so we couldn’t see a lot, but we did manage a sneaky ice cream by way of desert. They do like their ice cream around these here parts.

JOGLE 7 Day 8 Mon 8 Sep

Mon 8 Sep Start 9.15 Finish 7.20 Distance 23 Miles From Newquay to Portreath.

 

A very slow start to the day, it seemed to take us ages to get to Perrenporth some 9 miles. The planned short cut across the dunes didn't work out as we couldn't get across the stream due to thick undergrowth. We took a detour via footpaths and the roads via the entrance to Perran Sands holiday park. It was a shame really as we missed out on a nice beach walk. Arrived at Perrenporth by 13.30 and had a quick sandwich and coffee. Then onto the SW coastal path to St Agnes, a nice walk but it took us ages. We had a quick class of coke at the pub in St Agnes and then took the road route to Porthtowen to save time, as we were running way behind time. I telephone the Beachside B&B to let them know that we would be late. I had worked out by then that the planning had gone wrong as I meant to book us into Porthtowen but booked Portreath instead, oh well what what’s a few miles between friends, don’t ask Ian! We got back on to the SW coastal path to get us from Porthtowen to Porthreath as this was the shorter distance, it was a lovely walk with a beautiful sunset. Arrived at Portreath, Beachside B&B,  feeling very tired. Did the usual shower and rinse out of clothes (the socks are hung from the rucksack to dry out during the next days walking (a true sign of a well seasoned walker!) and then into the Portreath Arms  for our supper, our landlady is the chef there and she served up Lemon meringue pie with custard especially for me. We had a nice breakfast, and met up with a walker from Germany (he wasn't wearing lederhosen either!)

JOGLE 7 Day 9 Tue 9 Sep

Tue  9 Sep Start 0900 Finish 1715 Distance 18 from Portreath to St Ives.

 

We continued along the SW coastal path to Hayle which was moderate to easy and then cut down onto the road to get us onto the beach without having to go all around the headland, the beach walking part was somewhat boring. Ian took time out to conduct a scientific survey into our walking gaits. It seems that my gait thanks to the footprints and the measurements taken (by Ian using a whistle and lanyard) on the sand has been proven to be longer than his. Ian reckons in the overall JOGLE scheme of things that he has scientifically proven that I would have arrived at lands End several days before him due to my longer stride. What can I say? Had we been a bit quicker and perhaps a bit less scientific we could have crossed over the Hayle Bar as it was a low low tide and saved ourselves a  long detour up the estuary, unfortunately the tide had just started to turn and we would have been wading up to our thighs according to the life guard. So we carried on the long way round. We stopped at Johnny’s Cafe and Store for lunch (A French sort of place), where freshly baked organic bread is made every day. It is starting to get very hot with not much of a breeze about. The coastal path around these parts is not well signed especially coming into St Ives and getting out of Carbis Bay was not easy. We stopped at Carbis Bay in café/shack where it was cool and we both had a litre of coke each and spent time to cool down. We made it to St Ives in good order. The Hotel was expensive for what it was and no drying facilities as they use chemicals? We found a launderette and a really hot dryer that subsequently melted Ian’s underwear and walking top, personally I think it was due to the friction and heat generated by Ian walking and having to stride out his gait to match mine and not the fact that the tumble dryer was on super hot!  We had a nice meal out at a pizza and pasta cafe on St Ives waterfront- I tried a crispy duck pizza. We went and found the Tate gallery, although it was shut, it was made from an old gasometer. I was kept awake all night by flushing toilets, the hotel was mostly accommodating the senior generation! (So no more). We managed to see the ultra bright full moon across the bay on way back from St Ives harbour.

JOGLE 7 Day 10 Wed 10 Sep

Wed 10 Sep Start 0900 hrs Finish 1600 Distance 15 Miles from St Ives to St Just.

 

Decided to avoid the SW Coastal Path as this part of the route is graded as severe and due to the heat yesterday I didn't want to take the chance of heat exhaustion, it was a lot cooler, but we still took the North Atlantic highway to St Just. The journey was mostly uneventful and traffic very light, the views were very good and enjoyable with a nice sea breeze blowing. We stopped at the Zennor Chapel Cafe for coffee which was really nice, where a small museum can be visited, with a miniature watermill. The lunch stop was overlooking the sea, we sat on the SW Coastal path and from there you could see how technically difficult it would have been. We had an uneventful arrival at Commercial Hotel in St Just. We went and bought a pasty for breakfast for tomorrow’s early start, this is because we didn’t want to rush getting to Lands End but we had a bus to catch and a tight schedule to keep to if we were going to catch the train on time. We had nice evening meal in the Hotel.

JOGLE 7 Day 11 Thu 11 Sep

Thu  11 Sep Start 0655 Finish 0830 Distance 5.5 Miles From St Just To Lands End.

Had pasty for breakfast never again! It spent the rest of the morning repeating on me! We stopped at Sennen Cove for coffee but the café was not ready, so I had a coke, a cherry scone and a packet of crisps. We arrived at Lands End without much of a to do. It was bit like wetting yourself in a wet suite, you get that lovely warm feeling but no one notices, so no fanfare or crowds cheering us on, just another day in the office really, knowing what you have achieved and the effort it took to do it., is probably only something that you will truly appreciate. We had the obligatory photos taken at the sign post with our sign saying “my wife said its this way”, ironically the sign was pointing towards John O Groats! Is this some sort of sign? LOL – don’t go there! We visited the JOGLE museum, had a good look around, grabbed a coffee and some postcards along with a pin badge. We had an open top bus ride to Penzance which was great and quite an exhilarating ride around the country side and because the ticket machine was not working we didn't pay. We had lunch in Penzance, well it was a cream tea (we hadn’t had one the whole trip), by the way in Cornwall, its cream on top of jam, in Devon it jam on top of cream ok?  We bought a takeaway sandwich for lunch on the train, although travelling first class (thank you Ian) you get bottomless tea/coffee and light snacks and a free copy of the Times paper. The Train was very busy, just as well we booked but we couldn’t get a seat together and was no spare seats. Ian has said he is going to write his JOGLE blog over xmas, but he didn’t say which Xmas!  I arrived in Reading on time and despite the fact that its a new station they are still no signposts to the Reading/Gatwick line!! Got to Farnborough North on time (The train goes from platform 5 at Reading). Job Done. Mission accomplished. The (Lands) End!

JOGLE 6.5 Day 9 Tue 10 Sep 13

Depart Kirk Yetholm at 8.15 Arrived home at 2100.

Today is travel home today, so we are in the hands of the movers.  Luckily it went well with only a delay at the Airport because of striking French Air traffic Controllers. Bus fares 2.70 to Kelso by Peter Hogg, No 81 school bus from Town Yetholm. £7.90 to Edinburgh by Perryman’s No 52 which took us back along a lot of the route we had walked, which I enjoyed, just seeing it all whizzing past in an hour as opposed to several days! The City Airport bus was £ 3.50 to the airport and goes from Waverley Station. Ian in a last ditch attempt to improve my cultural understanding and appreciation of Art (only joking)  had me looking at Edinburgh Castle, The Scottish Parliament and the Royal Mile. I enjoyed them all and the Scottish Parliament is definitely well worth a visit. Being stuck at airport for an extra hour as the flight was delayed was really boring. Priority boarding really doesn’t make a difference, you may get on the plane quicker but you still have to hang around waiting for everyone else, so what’s the point I ask?  We arrived at Gatwick safe and sound and jumped on the Gatwick Express back to Victoria and shot off home from there. Getting in around 2100 that night, another long day!

JOGLE 6.5 Day 8 Mon 9 Sep 13

Depart Jedburgh at 7.50 arrive at Kirk Yetholm at 1600. Distance 17.5 Miles.

We managed to get an early breakfast by a kind member of staff for 07.00. It is supposed to be 07.30. It is surprising how many places won't budge on this, to be honest I didn't really miss the scrambled egg, and double cereal with toast is good to go.   Ian was feeling a lot better. We managed to grab a few sandwiches for lunch on the way to the bus stop but in the end we found a nice pub to have lunch in and stayed chatting with other walkers for a while. We did met lots of walkers travelling along the St. Cuthbert’s Way today. Most were walking the whole of the St. Cuthbert’s Way as opposed to us who were just using it as means to get to Kirk Yetholm. For once we were all going in the same direction, but a novelty for us as we usually walk the opposite way. On arrival at Kirk Yetholm we took the obligatory photos of the end and start for us of the Pennine Way. Then I realised as we headed for the pub that I had booked us onto the wrong hotel, for some reason I thought the Plough was in Kirk Yetholm, it’s in Town Yethom a mile down the road. Well that’s two mistakes this trip, clearly my eye was not on the ball! We had a pint at the Border public house where4 it all started all those years ago. We wrote in the Pennine Way book and linked our 2009 entry up. We had a chat and photograph with Wainwright (His picture is on the wall) and set off for the Hotel in Town Yetholm. It was a very nice and friendly country place. The food was good and the shower better than most. As usual we were too tired to do anything else so hit the sack early for a good night’s sleep.

JOGLE 6.5 Day 7 Sun 8 Sep 13

Depart Lauder at 09.00 Arrive at Ancrum 1700 (bus stop) to Jedburgh 1710 hrs. Distance 21 Miles.

A very good days walking. The weather glorious in the morning not a cloud in the sky until later in the day when it became overcast but no rain. Followed the South Upland Way to Melrose missed a turning that wasn't signposted but the alternative route we took through Wester Housbrytes which was in my opinion very scenic. I wasn't really watching the map too closely.  Had lunch by the Abby in Melrose along with a latte coffee which was nice but couldn't hang around due to wanting to catch the bus at Ancrum. We followed the No 1 cycle path through the Boswells and then picked up the A68 to the start of the Roman Road that runs parallel to the A68 and is much safer although no longer straight and very uneven to walk on. Got back onto A68 and headed for the Ancrum turn off only to see the bus go shooting past us. We started to run for it only to see it turn around and head back to the main road, we flagged it down and the driver, bless him stopped for us, that saved a two hour wait for the next one or a six mile walk into Jedburgh. Perrymans No 51. £1.70. The Hotel room was good and was in an Annex and the shower was good as well. Ian was quite poorly that evening and had me worried for a while, but he had made a full recovery by the morning. I had a nice evening meal in the hotel restaurant. We managed to persuade the staff to serve us breakfast early so that we could catch the bus in time to get back to Ancrum to carry on where we had left off. It has to be said that Perryman’s runs a very good service in the Borders area.

JOGLE 6.5 Day 6 Sat 7 Sep 13

Depart Pathhead 9.05 at Arrive at Lauder 15.00 Distance 16 Miles.

Ian had whiskey in his porridge this morning not sure whether that will speed things up or slow things down or just provide general medicinal pain relief? To quote “we are a bit like old cars - you just learn to live with the rattles”. We stopped at the newly opened very modern and pleasant House of Soutra coffee shop that is along the A68 next to the Soutra Farm. Luckily for us the dingy pub before the coffee shop was closed so we couldn’t stop there. At least the coffee shop had Wi-Fi and we able to catch up on Facebook and emails. Internet access in the Borders area is a bit intermittent.   The walk along the A68 was very boring being mostly pavement and grass verge. The traffic wasn’t too bad and reasonably light. There were some nice views but not many distractions which is why we made good progress all day and arrived in a good time. I even managed to grab a sneaky Costa Coffee at the BP Garage on the way into Lauder. The Eagle Hotel was ok as hotels go but it had a dodgy shower but the main bathroom was good. The original Hotel that we had booked in had gone bust. Whilst on a motorcycle tour around Scotland I called in on the way home to make sure our booking was secure as I had not received an acknowledgement. As I walked through the door the owner asked me if I was from the Bank. Well for me that said it all and when I checked the trip advisor reviews, it had been labelled as a Fawlty Towers, a lucky escape me thinks. The evening meal was good and the pub classics that were simple but filling were being served. Lauder was celebrating the battle of Flodden that evening, that’s a battle the Scott’s lost, not quite sure why you would celebrate a defeat. We heard the bagpipes, saw men on horseback and people marching up the street. The celebration carried on most of the night until about 2am with people learning to play bagpipes in the street! There was also loud music from the bar thumping through the walls into our room, luckily that stopped about 10pm. Conclusion, don't stay in Hotels in towns in Scotland on Sat nights if you want a quiet night.

JOGLE 6.5 Day 5 Fri 6 Sep 13

Depart Edinburgh at 08.40. Arrive at Pathhead 1500. Distance 13 Miles.

We had a very nice breakfast at the School House B&B. Our host gave us lots of food to take with us on our walk including some very nice and large Almond Croissant which was much appreciated.  We didn’t actually ask for a packed lunch and we didn’t need to as we had enough to keep us going all day. Today was mostly urban walking to enable us to by-pass Edinburgh and link in with the borders. It was very boring apart from a very nice visit to a Garden Centre Coffee Shop. We had some lovely views of the Pentland Hills but were pleased that we had decided to keep east of the Pentlands rather than try and walk over them. On the map there is no clear pathway and without making a separate trip to do a recce there was no way of really knowing. The Stair Arms Hotel, a family run Hotel was very much as expected and the staff were very helpful. We even managed to get our washing tumbled dried for free and packed lunches that we ordered were very good. The hotel restaurant was fine but very quiet and everyone was talking in whispers.  It could have done with some background music to liven it up a bit. No Internet access. The weather forecast is not good for tomorrow, its going to rain all day. Today it started raining heavily after we arrived, thank goodness!

JOGLE 6.5 Day 4 Thu 5 Sep 13

Depart Linlithgow at 0840. Arrive at Edinburgh at 1700. Distance 21 Miles.

Today saw us setting off along the Union Canal.  The one thing about long distance walking is that you spend days at a time walking a section that is very samey.  The only blessing about canal walking is that it is always level as it follows the contours. The disadvantage because it follows the contours is that you can do big loops instead of taking a straight line. This happened today as made our way around a massive industrial complex outside Edinburgh.  This particular stretch of the canal happened to be right under the flight path of Edinburgh airport.  I managed to wave off some friends as they flew over the canal, they had been staying in Edinburgh for a few days.  Unfortunately we couldn’t get their fast enough to meet them before they left.  We also saw canal boats owned and run by the St John Seagull Trust who appeared to be taking people out on day trips.  They seemed very pleased to see us and waved vigorously as they went past. We also came across some very high aqueducts that made you feel a little bit giddy when you looked over the side. I came across a fire crew coming towards me along the canal with all their gear on and various tools of the trade.  I wasn’t quite sure what they were doing, maybe putting the canal out? There was also a weird looking dredging boat making its away along and churning up the bottom of the canal as it went. The days walking was long and tiring but there were certainly many interesting things to see on the way. Coming off the canal and walking around the Edinburgh ring road to our B&B proved to be a little bit challenging as the footpaths were few a far between. Ian and I made out like cyclists and used some of the cycle routes, although it wasn’t easy to pretend you were peddling as you walked, luckily we didn’t get a flat tyre!  We arrived at our quirky School House B&B in Conniton.  Conniton has retained much of its village style and the local shop keeper knew who our B&B host was and give us some good directions to get there. We ate out at McKenzie’s a local restaurant which served a very nice meal and looked after us well.

JOGLE 6.5 Day 3 Wed 4 Sep 13

Depart Kilsyth at 0910. Arrived at Linlithgow at 1745. Distance 18 Miles.

A normal breakfast followed by a reasonable start time. We set off along the Forth and Clyde Canal. Stopped at the Falkirk wheel for an hour and had a good look around the visitors centre and also had our lunch. We climbed up alongside the wheel to get onto the Union Canal towpath. It was very pleasant walking along the canal. The weather was overcast and breezy to start with but progressed into sunny cloudless sky with a gentle breeze. There were lots of cyclists trying to run you over and ignoring signs about not cycling through the tunnels and under the bridges and annoyingly disturbing the peace and quiet by ringing their bells (and making me jump!). I put my MP3 player on and drowned them out with a bit of rock and roll and because I couldn’t hear them coming I couldn’t be made to jump out of their way, that made them slow down, well some were going so fast as to be positively dangerous. Bonney Bridge saw some locals extending their gardens along the canal that were full of flower and very beautiful to look at. It seems that visitors like their BBQ on the banks of the canal and then proceed to throw all their beer cans in the hedges and woods and leave the remains of their BBQ laying around - yep great very nice! Not!  We came across a very long cavernous limestone tunnel to walk through showing roots of plants through the roof and stalactites were forming as well. But there were not many canal boats around. We went for a walk around Linlithgow town and called into Bar Leo for a meal - pizza! Surprisingly cholesterol free without the cheese. We had a quick look around the castle and then to bed for an early night. The Strawberry Bank B&B was a typical four star B&B and very nice but a bit overpowering with flowers and poofy smells (for me anyway). The breakfast menu was very imaginative scrambled egg and bacon on toasted bagel drizzled with maple syrup - yum and Scrambled egg with poached salmon on triangles of brown toast with a toasted croissant. 

JOGLE 6.5 Day 2 Tue 3 Sep 13

Depart Glasgow Central Station at 08.58 for Milngavie. Arrived Kilsyth at 1530. Distance 16 Miles.

Revile at 6.45 and breakfast at 07.30. We went shopping at Greggs and Pret A Manger for lunch. We found the underground platforms for our train at Central Station and arrived Milngavie for 9.30 and set of via back roads to pick up the Strathkelvin Railway Walk and eventually the Forth and Clyde Canal to Auchinstarry via Kirkintilloch and Campsie. The views from the hillsides overlooking Glasgow were very nice and showed what a sprawling City Glasgow is. We had to use our cow negotiation skills on route as they were blocking a path that we were on, I supposed they could have been thinking the same thing about us really. It had rained during the night otherwise the weather was really nice with sunny spells and became very warm in the afternoon. The Boathouse Inn on the outskirts of Kilsyth is very nice and the surrounding marina full of canal boats that makes for a lovely back drop.  The room was very comfortable and the view over the Marina was nice. The food was very nice as was the service and beer. There is also a garden of senses that is very nice along with some really good wood carvings out of tree trunks and also decoratively carved wooden seats.

JOGLE 6.5 Day 1 Mon 2 Sep 13

Depart London at 1600 arrived Gatwick Airport at 1645. Depart 1940 to Glasgow arrived 2050.

Both of us managed to hop on to the Gatwick express from Victoria Station on time and together, although I think Ian got there just before me. We arrived at Gatwick Airport on time and made it across to terminal two without incident.  This time we even went through security without a hitch, which was a first. Ian took his boots of this time which seemed to work. We had a nice leisurely tea in Pret a manger – as the Easy Jet 1920 hrs. to Glasgow plane was delayed and took off late abut it did manage to arrive on time. We caught the Airport City bus and managed to get off at Central Station at the right place. This is where things went slightly wrong as someone hadn’t checked the exact location of the hotel properly and set off in what he thought was the right direction but wasn’t! A quick check of google maps soon had going back the other way and around a corner to the Hotel Rennie Mackintosh, luckily it wasn’t far away as it had started to rain, a sign of things to come said Ian, no not really said I as I think we will be dodging rain all week, someone was hoping to throw that quote back at me as soon as the first rains storm hit us.   The Hotel was a cheap and cheerful place that clearly was being used for other things, judging by the notices on the reception desk about renting rooms by the hour!! I am not sure Ian was that impressed by the so called Rennie Mackintosh look alike art, well I did my best to make him feel at home, at least the shower was alright.

JOGLE 6 Day 7 Tue 14 May 13

Departed at 0900 hrs, arrived at 1310.  Drymen to Milngarvie 13 Miles. A really good pacey walk today and only slowed down by map checks because the sign posts from North to South are not as good as they are going the other way and some are misleading.  Most of the walking was along an old railway track – bliss! You can tell it was the last day, head down, go with no stops, very pleasant and meandering over some nice lowland scenery, although getting to the town was rather tedious as the WHW was very badly signposted. The weather was very windy with a cold North Westerly blowing. On arrival at Milngarvie (pronounced Mil guy) we took the usual celebratory photos by the usual signs on display that are located right next to the town’s main shopping area and lots of coffee shops, they're like London buses really , never one when you want one, then they all come at once!! (sweet irony there then).  The train to Glasgow Central station was waiting as we arrived at the Milngarvie Station. We ate our nicely made packed lunch on the train whilst meandering through urbanisation, at least it was warm, and dry. After settling into the Alexander Thompson Hotel we explored the City art gallery and the Rennie Mackintosh tea shop and the Rennie Mackintosh Glasgow school of Art. We ate out at an Italian restaurant (noooooo I didn’t have pizza! Well Ok I did!!)  Afterwards we went to see a film called the Reluctant Fundamentalist (quite a profound film) in the tallest cinema in the country. Guess what? On our next trip (and last) to Glasgow we are going to stay at the Rennie Mackintosh Hotel. Look, don't ask me about Rennie Mackintosh (check Wiki) I'm just the logistician!

 

JOGLE 6 Day 6 Mon 13 May 13

Departed at 09.15 arrived 15.30. Rowardenan to Dryman 14 miles. Neil gave us a lift back in the morning to where he picked us up, outside the Hotel. During the night snow fell on the hills and I managed to get a cracking photo of Loch Lommond with the snow covered hills in the background (this photo is getting framed on put on the wall in the JOGLE operational control room! (aka JOGLE HQ)). Afternote - seriously thinking of entering the picture into the Country File calendar competition. Ian then realised as he was putting his gaiters on that he'd picked up a wrong gaiter so Neil had to come back with the right one or was it the left one?! The room was very nice although it didn’t have a TV or guest lounge. We asked for packed lunches but got told that we would be better of eating in the Oak Tree Pub in Balmaha.  I wasn’t particularly happy about this as I prefer to stop and eat when I feel like it. As it happens because of the rain it was a good shout and the pub served Pizza! Yes result!! It was also nice and cosy and full of tired looking WHW South to North walkers who were only on Day 2, one does wonder if this is as far as some get. The beauty of being an End to End walker is that you can take whatever route you like and although we were following the West Highland Way we decided to do our own version of the route and take the quickest way into Dryman from Balmaha. What this really means in plain English is that there is a big massive hill (the first or last depending on which way you are going) that Ian and I admired from ground zero and thought how nice and pretty it looked (really?) but decided it could be conquered another day. I think we had both had enough of the weather by then and just wanted to get to the end of our Journey. The weather was fairly clear with heavy showers thrown in for good measure, in fact it pelted down as we arrived at the B&B in Dryman (we had just got dried off from the last shower). The day on the whole was good walking and not as tough as yesterday. The Ashbank B & B in Dryman was very nice with very good hosts who were very attentive. The bedroom was lovely and warm and we were even asked if our washing could be done and dried at no extra charge! This is probably best B & B on the whole of the WHW. By the way Eric Lidell Of Chariots of Fire fame lived there as well, blue plaque to follow? We ate in the Potteries for our evening meal had a drink in the oldest pub in Scotland, The Clachan Inn.

JOGLE 6 Day 5 Sun 12 May 13

Departed at 08.45 hrs. Arrived at 18.15. Crianlarich to Rowardenan 20 miles. The weather, well guess what? It’s raining! Glad to be out of the hotel although it’s the one place that serves breakfast early! Not that it makes much difference by the time we got sorted with the bill and poor packed lunches it was 8.45 by the time we left. The route down to Loch Lommond wasn't too bad we had to detour over some boogy moorland to get past some cows on the track that were fighting. I lost my footing and landed up on my *rse! and got a wet *rse in the process. I'm just so glad I didn't take a knee or ankle out. Note to self - do not attempt communication with walking partner on Sundays between 0900hrs and 1000 hrs as the omnibus edition of the Archers is on, instead whistle, sing loudly (out of tune) and pretend you are playing the drums to Muse, The 2nd Law. I certainly wont learn much about the price of sheep's wool or what Eddy Grundy has been up to but at least I can pretend I've been to a Music Festival, its the same as walking in Scotland really - wet and muddy!!  We stopped and had lunch at Doune Bothy which was the only decent shelter on route at 12.45, a good call as I thought we would have been at Inversnaid Hotel by then, little did I know the worst was to come! Walking on the edge of Loch Lommond was a real tough one and in some places you are almost climbing a sheer cliff face and/or exceedingly high step ups and downs, everything was wet, muddy and very slippery, so progress was painfully slow for 3 miles and very exhausting, making sure we didn't lose our footing was a high priority. It took us until 3.15 to reach the Inversnaid Hotel for a brief respite from the cold and wet and a welcome cup of coffee and a warm up (we averaged less than 1 mile an hour). It was here that I discovered another flaw in our moisture control in that the water runs off the bottom of the trousers onto the boot and away, the feet stay dry, however with the high stepping up the trousers rise above the boot and consequently the water drips onto the socks and gets into the boot that way.  I have written to Paramo and made them aware of this. I telephoned Neil and Fiona (our next B & B hosts) who assured us it would take three more hours to walk the 8 miles from Inversnaid to Rowardenan, which it did, we arrived very wet, cold and tired we got stuck into a big meal at the local hotel and then Neil came and picked us up and drove us to the B & B which was good of him. We had a good nights sleep and managed to get everything dried off. The breakfast was good and Ian and I munched into a big bowl of porridge each. 

JOGLE 6 Day 4 Sat 11 May 13

Departed at 0830 hrs. Arrived 1630. Bridge of Orchy to Cranlarich 13 miles.  The Stance Cottage B &B was good and welcoming and provided a very nice breakfast. A good days walking alongside the railway and road most of the way.  We knew what to expect along this section of the route because we had seen most of it on the way to Fort William by train. The weather was wet and windy all the way to Tyndrum. We had coffee and cake at Tydrum which is very touristy but also proved to be a useful recce for my motorbike trip to Scotland later in the month as it had a proper bikers parking spot. The weather cleared. We had lunch on a nice bench next to a ruined monastery and quite a chit chat with people as they went by. I haven’t said much about people walking from South to North.  Most look fairly miserable and you do wonder why they are there.  I make a point of saying hello to everyone but mostly get ignored. I’ve now got to the point where I can’t bothered as there are loads of them coming towards us and mostly unsociable and not from the UK. I think one American got the joke “about it being nice weather for a Duck” someone thought I said something else beginning with “F”  as if! We had a steep climb through forest to get to Crianlarich. At the end of the track we met three mad cyclists aiming on getting to do the WHW in a day - no chance, it was 1600hrs and they had only just got half way! We stayed in the Crianlarich Best Western Hotel. The Best Western was definitely not as good as a B & B. It’s a shame the Glenbruar House B & B had to close on us. The owner phoned us and apologised profusely about having to close for the weekend and then kindly booked us into the Hotel. The bath towel was missing, the toilet wouldn't flush properly, the packed meals were very expensive and sod all in them! A good point was the drying room, it was the best one yet! There was no O2 signal and I had to use a phone box, now there's a novelty. (note to self must phone O2 and complain!) It’s crazy that I could download on the internet using my phone but I couldn’t ring anyone! The local pub was serving pasta and chips together, the deep fat fried mars bar was not on the menu!!! The meals at BW where fussy so landed up having a spinach pasta but there wasn't enough of it and no stodgy puddings either considering just how busy the WHW is they still don't cater very well for walkers here. I've not found one place that sells Pizza! Having withdrawal symptoms. We came to pay the bill and they tried to charge us for a bottle of wine we didn't have and nearly forgot to charge us for packed lunches, I wish I hadn’t been so honest!

JOGLE 6 Day 3 Fri 10 May 13

Departed at 0900 hrs. Arrived at 1800 hrs. Kinlochleven to Bridge of Orchy. 21 miles. We climbed the highest peak on the West Highland Way today at 540 meters.  The weather was just right and the views were absolutely stunning. Walking down the Devils Staircase was ok apart from that the knees don’t really like steep down hills anymore, maybe I need to look at knee supports that do more than just keep the knee warm. I have also had the squits for the last 48 hrs and didn’t pack the immodium instants. I am not sure where that came from, but it has kind of put me off eating and left me living on a diet of mars bars and crunchies!  We arrived at the Kingshouse public house in the rain and thoroughly wet on the outside at 1300 hrs.  that was a tough 8 miles! I managed Leek and Potato soup and a coke for energy as I knew the next leg was just going to be a head down “yomp” in gale force winds and driving rain along miles of Drovers Way that had been thoroughly repaired in a previous century by Thomas Telford. We left at 1330 walking across Ranmore Common, it’s a shame about the weather because otherwise the moorland scenery would have been well worth the time and energy. This walk has turned into a drudge now and a long one at that.  I stopped at the Inveroran Hotel for a coffee and a Mars Bar and dried out a little bit whilst I was waiting for Ian to catch up. Apparently we are in James Bond country (Sky Fall) and the Land thereabouts is mostly owned by the Fleming family. I was definitely in “Yomp” mode this afternoon and taking no prisoners. I was pleased that we arrived at the B&B by 1800hrs. Based on our earlier speed in the morning we would have not got there until 1930 hrs. Finally I felt like eating and we both ate our packed lunches and then went to pub for dinner and a drink. The pub food was very good and we sat by a nice wood burning stove and got chatting to a German guy who was walking the WHW and camping as well, we passed his soaking wet tent on the way to the B&B.  The B&B was nice, there was no heating on but our hosts did put all wet stuff into their boiler room as they had no tumble dryer due to it being broken and being removed. I think this is the first days walking where we have been rained on most of the day continuously. The Paramo gear did not let us down but we have found a flaw in the rucksacks because although we have waterproof covers the shoulder straps and belts are not waterproof so the water ran down and along and seeped in through the bottom of the rain cover and the rucksack.

JOGLE 6 Day 2 Thu 9 May 13

Departed at 0840 hrs. Arrived at 15.30 hrs. Fort William to Kinlochlevan-13 Miles. A good walk in the shadow of Ben Nevis to start with followed by a steep climb over the second highest point on the West Highland Way. The weather was fine at the start of the day but became progressively cooler as a cold wind blew in combined with some rain. Most of the walking was on good track and along the Old Military Road. We met a lot of people walking from South to North in various states of discomfort, some positively hacking along and others just enjoying the “stroll”! We managed some shelter (the only shelter) in a very ruined croft house to eat our lunch. The views all along this route are stunning and well worth the effort. We stayed at the Forest Lodge B&B which is right on the West Highland Way path and our host Paddy was very welcoming. I managed to get chatting to some people walking the West Highland Way for charity whose feet were worse for wear.  They were extremely grateful for my administration of the Sexton blister treatment kit. The local pub provided a very good evening meal and appears to be the centre of Kinlochleven activity.

JOGLE 6 Day 1 Wed 8 May 13

Caught the 05.55 train from Farnborough to Waterloo and jumped on the Jubilee Line to Canning Town, changed to the DLR for City Airport. Arrived in plenty of time and we had already checked in using the online check in and printed off the boarding passes, an easy system to use.  I met up with Ian and we went through security with the usual hold ups. Ian's boots set off the body scanner so he was subjected to a full body search, secretly I think he likes it! I had a pack of fluids tested, it was the hair shampoo that got it, at least it passed the test and then I knew my head (and shoulders)wouldn't explode when I wash my hair. We left 15 minutes late at 8.50 but arrived at Glasgow Airport on time. It’s interesting to note that  the Train Line Website reckons you can catch a train to Glasgow Central station from the airport , this is not the case, instead you have to use the bus shuttle service which issues a return ticket and it is very quick.  We had a wander around Glasgow whilst waiting for the train to Fort William. Whilst we were looking at a street map we were asked for directions, I said I didn't know as we were from the South of England, the answer I received was that we are from the Southern Hemisphere. I don't suppose you can get further south than that! And at least that was four of us speaking English! The train trip to Fort William was uneventful but the views and scenery were spectacular, it was also an opportunity to view the West Highland Way in the dry as it was pouring with rain during the train journey and in fact it poured with rain for the almost the whole trip.  Most of the route doesn't look too muddy and appears to be on good track way (famous last words).  On arrival at Fort William we stayed with Mildred again at Glengyle House. We ate at the Grog and Gruel pub which is where we ate last time we stayed in Fort William and comes highly recommended by Ian and I, good food and good beer.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 8 Tue 9 Oct 12

We had an early start today and Mildred kindly left out milk and juice so that we could have a light breakfast before going on our way along with a really good packed lunch. The train left on time (0740) and the route it took is superb via, Speen Bridge, Roy Bridge, Tulloch, Corrour, Rannoch, Bridge of Orchy, Upper Tynedrum, Crianlarich, Ardlui, Arrachoir and Tarbet, Garelochead. We were travelling right over the Highlands and saw lots of deer as well as stags. Unfortunately the train had to stop at Garelochhead and go back to Tarbet so that coaches could pick us up and take us in to Glasgow as an engineers train broke down further along the line. It’s a shame that the coaches drove straight past the airport and then decided to stop at Central Station and not Queen Street which added further to the delay. A quick taxi ride at a fixed rate of £22 saw us at the airport in time to get through security. Ian got fully frisked again (it’s the metal lace holes in the boots that set the alarm off, boots off and through the xray machine next time). All the rushing was for nothing as the flight was late! Well I guess it was one of those days. The Easy Jet flight took off at 3pm and arrived 4.15pm at Gatwick, so not bad. The fast shuttle service from North Terminal to South Terminal soon saw us at the train station and going our separate ways. The total distance we walked this trip was 104 miles of which 87 miles were the Great Glen Way.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 7 Mon 8 Oct 12

Depart 0920 Arrive 1700 Distance 10 miles. Fort WIlliam to Ben Nevis and back.

 Today we climbed Ben Nevis. 4400 ft high and climbing all that from sea level. The route up was full of rocky paths covered in large boulders and full switch backs with some reasonable paths in-between. The final reach to the summit involved a lot more switch backs on a very loose bed of medium sized stones laced with boulders. The Cairns are the final countdown to the top without them it would be difficult to discern the path through the cloud. Today the top was covered in snow and cloud which also had rain in it. The top was also very windy but shelter was available behind ruined buildings. There was a triangulation (trig) point and some sort of observatory I think. I had to put on the fleece, gloves and woolly hat to keep hypothermia at bay whilst crouched behind a wall to eat my massive packed lunch supplied by Mildred from the B&B. It took a lot of will power to do the climb up because at some points walking was reduced to a trudge and literally one foot in front of the other. It was a case of dig deep and grind. But if the climb up was bad enough then coming down was even worse. Total pain on the knees, the quads turned to jelly and probably a walking pole would have helped take the pressure of the knees. One twisted knee and one slide on the back and three hours later eventually saw me in the Glen Nevis cafe enjoy a coffee. Ian decided to visit the youth hostel and eventually we meet up at the Ben Nevis visitors centre for a high five and a slowish walk back to the B&B. We decided to eat in Fort William itself tonight at the Grog and Gruel Pub which was really busy and turning out some nice food. I went for the Wild Boar Breath chilli and could have done with that to get me up Ben Nevis. We've have done well for food this trip as nearly all the menus have had original variety unlike the southern pubs and restaurants that seem to serve the same old thing.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 6 Sun 7 Oct 12

Depart 0920 Arr 1800 South Laagan to Fort William Distance 24 Miles

Really nice breakfast by Robert and Phoebe. Robert was very entertaining and trying his best to wind us up being a typical North of the County of Durham man. He was busy telling us about his sheep over breakfast which is when Ian won the wind up stakes by asserting that the price of sheep is very good right now and that sheep wool is being made into carpet by British carpet markers. Well the reaction was certainly entertaining and we had a good laugh about it all day. (I think BBC Radio Four “the Archers” is a fictional programme). Saw several cyclists, meet two guys one from Dales and one from London on their way to Laagan. Ian has got shin splints badly and took the road to avoid ups and downs and I took the Great Glen Way path and went via the Fairy Wood which is much the same as the Gnome Garden in North Devon. Meet two Jordi lads who have been on the road since 5.30 to escape wife and kids for the day. Note to Ian - familiar theme here for a chapter in the book “we’re” going to write. Did I forget to mention the latest bright idea is to write a book about our adventures but instead of a start to finish narrative it will have individual chapters on themes such as B&B landladies, types of B&B, different showers, styles of breakfast, the variety of packed lunches, different types of B&B dogs, etc I am not so sure, clearly another retirement job. We kept at it all day and soon got to the end of the canal at Jacobs Ladder Locks. Walking through the outskirts of Fort William felt a bit dodgy but to save time we took various short cuts through housing estates to get to the Gylngyle B&B which just happens to be on the edge of the Ben Nevis Path and the start of the West Highland way. The Glyngyle B&B was very warm and the room was very comfortable. and a good shower. Didn't have to worry about washing as we had enough clothes to get us home which made a refreshing change.  Anyway there would be no point in bringing clean clothes home as they would only get washed again! The first night we ate at Browns Restaurant which also had a very original menu and good service and more importantly it was only 100 meters away, so not far to walk!

JOGLE 5.5 Day 5 Sat 6 Oct 12

Depart 0900 Arrived 1700 Inverrmoriston to South Laagan Distance 18 miles

Started off with some hill walking all the way to Fort Augustus. Very scenic and absolutely fine weather. Fort Augustus is very much a tourist trap with coach loads of Far East persons visiting. The Locks are a sight well worth seeing and that part of Fort Augustus is very picturesque. The walk from the Fort to South Laagan was mostly canal path and lochside path in nice sunshine and also following General Wade’s military road and the original Fort William to Fort Augustus railway line route. Work is in progress to restore the railway track and turn it into a cycle path which has some interesting tunnel features and an original railway station at Invergerry. It will be really good if they achieve it. A large ship wrecked boat was spotted in Loch Oich clearly it ignored the navigation marks. The B&B at Forest Lodge, is damp with dodgy heating but a really good shower. Ians quilt cover looked decidedly manky and he decided not to use it. At least they are giving us a lift to the local restaurant for dinner which is at the Eagle Barge Pub and Restaurant. The Eagle Barge Pub and Restaurant is a superbly converted cargo barge boat that was lovely and warn warm and cosy. The food was superb, Haggis, Neaps and tatties with a dram of whiskey and peat smoked salmon that Ian thoroughly enjoyed. The owner gave us a lift back to the B&B. Phoebe kindly dried our washing for us as even with the heating on full blast it was still damp in the room. During the evening Robert pointed out to us that tomorrow was 24 miles and not the 21 that we thought, but as most of the walking was following the Caladonian canal we thought that it shouldbn't be that ardious.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 4 Fri 5 Oct 12

Depart 0915 Arrived 1645 Drumnadrochit to Invermoriston Distance 17 miles

 Today is a steep ascent up a minor road and we’re working quite hard to get there. It is mostly minor road today that has been recently tarmac, what a difference new tarmac makes to walking. I am not sure about the wear and tear on the boots though. Just past Ancarraig Lodges that are in the middle of no-where, but it is so still, quiet and peaceful all you can hear are birds and a running stream. Just about to walk past a pottery, I hope they do coffee as Ian is on a business meeting call at the moment. The pottery was a big anti-climax and it definitely didn't do coffee. We met two walkers coming the opposite way but they didn't have much to say. The views over the Loch and surrounding countryside are stunning when available as a lot of the view is hidden by trees. The information boards along the route continue to be informative talking about Eco Power Stations to Red Squirrels. The overall leg of this walk is very scenic and quiet. Arrived at Invermoriston in good order and even had time for a business meeting at the Glenmoriston Arms Hotel before going on to the Bracadale B&B which just happened to be at the far end of the village. We had our evening meal in the local hotel of roast beef with black pudding and penne pasta; the menus are certainly original around these parts. The Bracadale B&B is very nice with a double bed and bunk beds, guest lounge and separate bathroom with a very good shower. The breakfast was also very good as where the packed lunches that kept us going the following day.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 3 Thu 4 Oct 12

Depart 0900 Arrived at 1830 Inverness to Drumnadrochit Distance 20 miles.

 It was pleasant walking along Drovers trials, through forests and some open landscape. Found a pair of trainers sat on a wall in good condition. Meet some walkers coming the other way along with a cyclist or two even came across a runner. Perhaps the trainers were his, strategically placed for a changeover. Later on we came across an eco-cafe advertising itself as you walk along the path using planks of wood that are painted with what they are selling. Ian and I gave it a miss as it seemed a bit too “Glastonbury” if you know what I mean. We really didn't have time to sit in a Yurt, smoke a peace pipe whilst the water boiled on an open fire. We also came across an eco-playground for children where we had the second half of an enormous packed lunch. We passed the highest point of the Great Glen Way, it didn't actually say how high though. Going downhill was interesting passing signs telling us about "Newfies" from Canada in the 2nd WW setting up logging camps and the unofficial fastest water speed record on Loch Ness along with stunning views of the Loch. At one viewing point over Loch Ness was a memorial to Stuart, so we stopped and had a chat, as you do about life, fish and the universe. At the end of the path you drop down onto the A82 which was horrible and back to speeding vehicles again! I arrived at the Drumnodrochit Hotel and managed a Latte coffee whilst waiting for Ian. At this point my camera decided to play up with a “lens” problem which after some time fiddling with it found it-self in the bin. I did remember to take out the memory card though and I have retrieved all the photos. It just meant I was confined to the phone camera, which did a reasonable enough job. We arrived at the Brigend House B&B to a warm reception and detailed instructions with a tour. Even a schooner of Sherry as a pre-dinner tipple was provided. Eating out was at the local pub called the Fiddler which had over 500 whiskeys on display. Needless to say we didn't try them and stuck to the beer. The menu was very interesting and definitely not the standard pub food with Venison appearing frequently. The rest of Drumnadrochit is heavily commercialised with Loch Ness Monster shops and visitor centres. Breakfast in the norming saw Ian with a big grin on his face as Rosalyn sets high standards and cooked Ian a special fish breakfast on request.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 2 Wed 3 Oct 12

Depart 0850 Arrived 1430 Dingwall to Inverness. Distance 15 miles.

Kirklee B&B basic and comfortable. Nice breakfast. Landlady is married to a biker who used to ride a Pan European ST1300 now rides a Harley, never mind. So it has to be good. She provided a packed lunch which we stopped and ate in a bus shelter (good old Scottish bus shelters, you just can’t beat them!) just outside Inverness at around 12. Weather has been sunny so far but is now overcast, we are expecting rain anytime soon. We arrived at Inverness around 1400, there was no one in at the Craigside Lodge Guesthouse a four star B&B so we left our bags in the porch and headed into town and bought some tissues (runny nose syndrome) and travel wash. Then we spent an hour outside Costa Coffee watching the world go past with a Latte and a Hot Chocolate. On arrival at the B&B we were greeted with a warm welcome. It is very nice, spacious and comfortable and a good shower room. Our bags had been taken up to the room by the Landlady. Craigside Lodge Guest House has superb views over Inverness and of the Castle.  Amy and her mum provided a very good breakfast. They also tumbled dried the smalls at no cost and would have washed them as well for us had we asked earlier and not followed our usual routine of rinsing clothes out in a sink. We went to Hootenany's for a Thai meal on the basis that we're not likely to see a Thai restaurant for a week because of the remoteness of places we were staying in. They had live entertainment but by the time it was going to start we were already tucked up in bed by 2130 and competing in the world class snoring competition.

JOGLE 5.5 Day 1 Tue 2 Oct 12

Left North Camp Station at 08.07 the train was 3 minutes late. I arrived at Gatwick train station for 0900 hrs with time to spare. A short hop up the stairs and a quick nip and tuck to the terminal shuttle to get to the North Terminal in about 5 minutes, expecting to meet Ian. Well no plan survives first contact with the enemy as was the case for Ian, who found himself on the wrong platform and missing his train. Never mind he made it in good time for a thorough frisking by the security boys, again. Still struggling to get used to ticketless check in. Check in on line and print off the boarding pass and then go straight through security to departure gate you only have to check hold baggage in, so travel light and have less hassle. We arrived at Inverness Airport in good order and were soon waiting for the No 11 bus into the City itself at a cost of £3.75. We made a bee line for the Royal Highland Hotel left luggage room to see if our drop off from last May was still there, it was. Timing was everything and we made it to the station in time to catch the train to Dingwall. The train fare was just over £5. It was raining quite hard on arrival at Dingwall but we only had a short walk to the Kirklee B&B. We are meeting my Godfathers daughter, Rowena whom I haven't seen for about 30-35 years in Dingwall tonight. Had a nice meal in the National Hotel (as this was about the only place that was open in the evening) with Rowena and her husband Charles.

JOGLE 5 Day 9 Thu 17 May 12

Started  0 Finished 0 Distance 15 Miles Dingwall to Inverness. Yesterday my shoulder and under my arm and around my back where getting sore, the short walk and longer rest eased it all off. However this morning the pain in that area was severe, I could hardly use my right arm. I discussed this with Ian over breakfast and for once took my own advice and despatched my-self to Dingwall Cottage Hospital and their effective Casualty dept. I found myself repeating all the history about bike accident, broken ribs and collar bone. I was  assuming the worst that a pnumo thorax had developed in the upper chest due to pressure on ribs and shoulder from rucksack (which was lighter and smaller this time than previously) The x-ray didn't show anything and the doctor wasn't sure what it was. The advice was either strong pain killers or go home.  I spent the last week of the Pennine Way on strong painkillers because of Shin Splints (Carpel Tunnel Syndrome) and pitting oedema and the memories of how unpleasant that allwas, so I decided to call it a day. In hindsight that was definitely the right call. It took four weeks to clear up and as I write I am still seeing the physiotherapist. The physiotherapist unlike the doctors knew straight away what it was, which was Brachial Nerve damage.  It has to be said that Co-dydramol is really good along with codeine phosphate and we really like them! Lol. Ian and I had to do some quick re-planning to get us home and thanks to our Marsule B&B hosts and their laptop computer we were able to re-book flights pretty quickly from Inverness.  It all went really smoothly with a lift to the airport as well, courtesy of our B&B hosts. On arrival at home I went into re-planning mode and started to re-book everything for October. We have a walking plan for the next two years and cutting this section of walking short by a week threw it all out. So October is JOGLE 5.5.  This means we'll have to get the tour T-Shirts re-printed!

JOGLE 5 Day 8 Wed 16 May 12

Started  0830 Finished  1330 . Distance 10 miles.  Alness to Dingwall. This has to be the shortest days walking yet and very nice too. We had to walk on a bit of a main road to get us out of Alness. Once on the way we picked up a minor B Road that took us along a very nice cycle path through the woods to a small town where we stopped for a nice coffee and hot chocolate at the Balconie Inn.  After our break a minor road took us up the side of the hill that gave us stunning views over a sea  Loch and of course the oil rig production sites.  Along the route we took we came across a couple who were from the United States of America and walking the End to End but the LEJOG way.  It was a pleasant way to pass the time while I waited for Ian to catch up.  The arrival into Dingwall was pretty uneventful.  As we were early our room wasn’t ready the Landlady bent over backwards to make us feel welcome and within minutes we were settled in and contemplating the rest of the day. It was then that we realised how badly worn down the soles of our boots were becoming. Ian’s had only recently been re-soled.  We took a walk around Dingwall to work out were we going to eat that night and found a really modern café come restaurant that was very modern and turned out to serve some very good food with very friendly social staff, well it was the owner a builder who was standing in because of staff shortages. I used the opportunity  to utilise the service’ of the post office to send back a couple of redundant water bottles and some maps, just to lighten the load a bit more.  I use a Camel Bak for my water supply which is great as I can drink on demand without having to stop and dig out a water bottle.  The Camel Bak holds 1.5 litres which is plenty for a day’s walking in the current weather conditions. Because the weather has been fairly cool I’ve not needed so much water and as a full water bottle weighs in at 1kg and I was carrying two (which incidentally was not enough when walking the Pennine Way in temperatures of 25 degrees). So I managed to loose 4lbs of weight.  During our travels Ian and I always come up with some interesting ideas one of these is to have weather forecasting bus stops to compliment electric signs that tell when the next bus is coming but we though how about telling us when the next rain squall or other inclement weather as well and how long it is going to last for.  We also came up with the idea of solar powered flashing orange lights mounted on top of the rucksack, that way whilst walking along a main road we could be easily identified as a slow moving vehicle and warn other traffic to be careful around us.  Finally we feel rucksacks should come with built in Wi-Fi frames and a mini dish as alternative to the frequent times that we couldn’t get a mobile signal.  So to any would be designers out there I am sure you could come up with a solution but please no silly ideas like “Does it have to be a rucksack”? Really?? (Sorry in house arty designer joke).

JOGLE 5 Day 7 Tue 15 May 12

Started  0845. Finished  1610. 20 miles. Dornoch to Alness. It was a sunny day with rainy, squally showers and windy.  The walking today again was uninspiring. We managed to find a minor road that took us past some interesting scare crows before we joined the main road again and over the longest bridge  of its type in Europe, really? Well all I know is that we had a strong tail wind and were blown across the bridge.  We also passed the Glenmorangie distillery something we can forward to visiting should we ever return to that part of the world.  After passing the distillery we were able to turn off onto a minor road which then took us all the way into Alness and past the William Walton memorial stone.  Ian stopped to have a chat with an  around the coast of Britain walker carrying 4 stone and walking 30-40 miles a day.  This guy was very young and clearly very fit, so good luck and let’s hope he finishes the walk. On our arrival in Alness we headed for the Morvan House Hotel which was on the edge of town.  It was very nice and a little in the 70s.  But the couple who have just taken it over (He is Ex  Army) were making improvements and were very keen to make our stay pleasant.  When we came down for breakfast I found myself being told off for being late for parade and that I should have been their 5 minutes ago, yes, very amusing and it of course brought back some memories and a little bit of reminiscing and discussion of which Units we had served with. We ate out at the local curry house, it was really the only decent eating place.  The rest of the town didn’t do much for us and was on a par with Bridgewater.

JOGLE 5 Day 6 Mon 14 May 12

Started 0830. Finished  1530. 15 miles. Brora to Dornoch. Today the weather is a lot better , overcast with sunny spells and the wind has died down considerably.  We are getting used to the road walking now and dodging trucks and cars is almost becoming second nature.  It doesn’t mean to say we are enjoying it but it is the means to an end.  We passed Dunrobin Castle which looks to be very nice from a distance almost something out of  a Walt Disney movie. I managed to get a look at Dunrobin train station that is  a stop on request station and appears only to serve the Castle and the massive estate owned by Lord Sutherland.  I found an abandoned children’s scooter and thought I would try it out to see if it helped the walking at all. It didn’t work for me so I left it propped up against the side of the road in case someone else thought they could use it.  WStarted 0830 ell that someone else turned out to be Ian who came racing past me (I had a head start of about a mile!) as I was walking down hill (Photographic evidence was obtained).  All this occurred as some very serious cyclists going uphill  (really up themselves) shouted “surely you are not going all the way to London on that!”.  Sorry can’t quote the reply! On our way through Golspie we came across a really nice café called the Golspie Bothy.  I settled down to a nice Latte and got chatting to a couple from the Orkneys who just happened to be bikers as well, for some reason they thought we were mad as well, but there again he did ride a BMW, say no more. Suitable refreshed we made good progress along a nice coastal minor road that would lead us into the back way to Dornoch. We were lucky enough to see lots of “Spencers”  seals basking on the sand banks in the estuary, lucky them, at least they didn’t have to endure the A9.  The Bank B&B in Dornoch was very nice and comfortable with some interesting topiary by the front door.  The very friendly owners were quite proud of the fact that they bought the  “Bank”  which apparently the building was before they converted it into a B&B.  Ian and I had a double room each only because there was nothing else available, both rooms were very nice.Dornoch is a very “Royal” place with lots of golf courses and interesting shops and its own Cathedral. I  enjoyed a chicken stuffed with Haggis and Baileys Bread and Butter pudding at the Eagle Public House.  On their menu was a William Wallace Beef Burger , I asked very politely if William Wallace was the local butcher? It goes without saying that I got a very frosty response and to say the least I was surprised that I didn’t start another uprising. Ian came to my rescue and explained that William Wallace was in all probability not the local maker of the beef burgers but someone that was hung, drawn and quartered in London for leading an uprising against the English.

JOGLE 5 Day 5 Sun 13 May 12

Started  0915. Finished  1400. 12 Miles. Helmsdale to Brora .  After a disappointing stay at Helmsdale we set of for Brora in Gale force winds along the coastal road, again.  An uninteresting   walk apart from the nice views of the sea and oil rigs. We mostly spent the day dodging traffic and laughing at overweight cyclists trying to pedal up the hills, it’s quicker to walk! (I shout! along with useful advice such as "your back wheel is going round mate, but only just!!") and of course trying to  stay upright against the strong winds. We spotted some golfers doing their best  on a coastal course to play a round.  We found a handy bus stop (again) to have a lunch in , there is nothing on these roads for people to stop safely (layby with a seat/bench with a suitable brass plate on "here layeth the last JOGLE walker that argued with "'arry the Artic" etc). I suppose as this is such a short day (it was designed that way and just as well really) now is the time to comment on the fact that JOGLE is a popular thing to do and yet this part of Scotland makes no provision for the walkers and cyclists to make progress safely, a proper pathway or cycle route might be a good place to start.  The only sensible way to JOG is the main A road because it is the only road!  We stopped for a while and rested against a high stone wall in a field just to get out of the wind.  Ian used the opportunity to telephone his dad and explained the circumstances and how much progress we had made. (some days later, after we arrived  home we received an appropriate post card with two walkers hiding behind a stone wall and a suitable comment! Very funny Alan!).  Otherwise it was very quiet walking but getting stiff and sore and need to stretch as the wind was really quite tiring. The Sutherland Inn in Brora is very nice and the staff are very helpful and friendly.  The road walking is taking its toil on our boots as my soles have worn down quite quickly and Ian who has had his boots re-soled are also wearing down rapidily. As we arrived in Brora early (half day today) Ian used the opportunity to catch up on his sleep after the previous night’s disturbance.  I recced the Inn and found the washing machine and tumble dryers, second heaven and they were free as well!  The shower was excellent and the room was very well presented too. There are a few places to eat in Brora but the Sutherland Inn held its own and produced a very good evening meal and the service was good as well. There is a small harbour and nice town walk that I made use of whilst in Brora which is the only town to have a pharmacy for miles around.  Breakfast and packed lunches where very good as well.